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BITE: My Journal
June 18, 2018
The Grand Affair
It’s a rally of chefs from the grand hotels of...
June 11, 2018
Suicide Regrets
Suicide, the headlines not the inclination, distract...
June 4, 2018
Woodpecker At Play
Years pass and chefs mature, but there’s no need to...
May 21, 2018
Little Frog
The old-fashioned need for an old-fashioned…
May 14, 2018
Tartina
Eat well and you will live 100 years… Mangia Bene che...

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March 17, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
South Gate Reflections
Jumeirah Essex House has found a skilled veteran in chef Kerry Heffernan, now turning out his signature gougères and savory flans…

February 25, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
Smokin'Q
I couldn't wait to check out Smokin' Q, wrenched from the embers of a failed kosher steakhouse...

February 18, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
Brooklyn Fiore
Teodora’s patron realized he didn’t want to run a trattoria below his own duplex so he persuaded chef Roberto Aita of Roc to cross the Williamsburg bridge...

February 11, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
1968 Orsini's
When I want to feel appreciated, I go to Orsini's. “Bella signorina,” the captain greets me with unabashed joy…You could pay as much for an evening on Broadway with only half the dazzle...

February 4, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
Second Avenue Deli: Shy of a Renaissance
...puckering up over sour pickles and biting into a very good pastrami and tongue sandwich brings back a cherished old deli nostalgia...

January 28, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
Chop Suey View
Fatty Crab’s impresario Zak Pelaccio fine-tunes his pan-Asian riff overlooking Times Square’s neon rat-a-tat…

January 14, 2008 | Insatiable Critic
Dovetail Designs
If there is cachet in having an entrance even the average Mensa candidate can’t find, the new Dovetail has it. But try to find that door. It leads to deliciously complex food by chef-owner John Fraser…

December 17, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Crave on 42nd
Tonight we crave comfort and we’re soothed with a decent anchovied Caesar, a good enough burger…

December 10, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
The Smith’s Good Grub
The joint is jumping and we have to lean in to talk and repeat everything twice for our movie star pretty and unflappable waitress.

December 4, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Shelly’s Tradizionale at Sea
A stunning still life of lobster Catalana, wreathed in raw vegetables and fruit, is wowing even carnivores who once came here for huge caramelized steaks.

November 12, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Devi’s Revival
Power to the people at Devi means the team that created its brilliant and refined tasting menu is back, having bought out the boss. Faces you’ll remember tend the floor.

October 29, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Irving Mill Scores
What’s new and exciting is chef-partner John Schaefer’s delicious food on a trim but tempting market menu: The citric, preserved-lemon sparkle of grilled baby octopus…

October 15, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Reality at Pamplona
Now chef/owner Alex Urena…gives New Yorkers Spanish classics that are easy to love

October 1, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Toloache Bistro
An earnest Mexican bistro yearning for the bigtime…Chef Julian Medina’s menu skips around Mexico…

September 24, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Fiamma Makeover
Snatched from his…cocoon at the Ritz Carlton in Tyson’s Corners, new chef-Partner Fabio Trabocchi delivers complex dazzle…

September 10, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Accademia di Vino
I don’t want to jinx this jinxed restaurant address by rashly optimistic judgments but Accademia di Vino could well be just what the neighborhood was waiting for.

August 22, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Southern Hospitality
I suspect you Justin Timberlake fans (plus the guys who follow you anywhere) will be hoping to spot your crush sipping Mountain Dew in a back booth of this raffish joint he’s fronting.

August 14, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
l’Impero’s New Era
In Manhattan's spring shuffle of three star toques, Fiamma's Michael White is now king...his new menu reflects the dazzling sunniness of Southern Italy's markets and White's own unleashed exuberance…

August 8, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Surfing Oceana
The energy and élan of Chef Pollinger’s stinging nettle and sorrel soup poured over a delicate yogurt panna cotta, and his ink-dark cuttlefish…

July 9, 2007 | Insatiable Critic
Park Avenue Summer
No surprise at all that...it feels so summery...tall reeds and grasses dividing the room...the chef’s seersucker tunic...

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