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BITE: My Journal
September 18, 2017
Popeyes
The siren call of grease and salt. I imagine I can...
September 11, 2017
Quality Eats UES
After the thick grilled Nueske’s bacon on peanut butter...
September 4, 2017
Burger & Lobster Times Square
Shelley decides the way to celebrate a birthday…
August 28, 2017
Emily on Downing/Marta
Reading about Detroit pizza in Brooklyn makes me hunger...
August 21, 2017
Public Kitchen
I follow Jean-Georges anywhere…

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November 15, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Swifty's: Gimme Shelter
Glenn Bernbaum was Mortimer’s, of course, testy and rude, people say, but he kept the riffraff out and the prices low and he always had a table for Mumsy and moi. I can assure you that no member of Glenn’s salon refusé – certainly no restaurant critic…

November 8, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Howl
Is there anything Mario Batali won't do with pig jowls and pasta? At the new Lupa, named for the Roman she-wolf, carnality still rules.

November 1, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Eat to the Beat
They look like discos (one of them is a disco) yet serve major-league food: Crossbreeds Hush and Oriont redefine the dining room.

October 20, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
The Empire Strikes Back
A touch of alchemy lifts the weighty Austro-Hungarian cooking at Danube, David Bouley's velvet-swathed restaurant in TriBeCa.

July 12, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Adagio for Fins
Cello's serenity and seafood dazzle have well-heeled gourmands in delirium; earthier souls will wallow in the rustic abundance at Beacon.

July 12, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Beacon: Dinner in Waldy's Backyard
The late, lamented Rainbow's Waldy Malouf, the chef who fell from the sky, must have landed headfirst in the earth. How else to explain his swift switch from oysters Rockefeller and lobster thermidor to the rustic open-fire cooking of Beacon?

June 28, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Feret at Last
Dipping into France's nurturing "cuisine de maman" at two new brasseries and a pair of bistros refreshes a gourmand's fusion-lashed soul.

June 28, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Maison
Maison strives valiantly to be French. Indeed, it has more applied Gallicmania than any other four bistros in town...

June 28, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Park Bistro
When founding chef Jean-Michel Diot left, Park Bistro listed into a slump. But now Philippe Roussel has claimed the spiffy little burgundy-and-white checkerboard kitchen, bringing with him his sunny herb greenery and the lush ways that won all those "Best Of" accolades for Chelsea Bistro & Bar.

June 21, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Second Thyme Around
In two old familiar spaces near Bloomingdale's, Cibi-Cibi courts the youth vote with excess decibels, while Latin sizzle is the draw at Bolivar.

June 14, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Wall-to-Wall Italy
Don't even try to fathom the menu at ABC Carpet's rustic Colina. Just put yourself at chef Jonathan Waxman's mercy, and let your seams pop.

May 31, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Pearl Oyster Bar
In the Village, sublime lobster roll is worth the wait at Pearl Oyster Bar.

May 24, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Cat's Got Her Tongue
Chelsea boys and bohos get a cozy new canteen on Tenth...

May 17, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Have Whisk, Will Travel
At last, Jean-Louis Palladin has begun soothing his Gotham itch. But his new Palladin still needs work to satisfy our Jean-Louis itch.

May 10, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Whatever Happened to American Food?
Sure, it was buried by fusion, scorned by ambitious chefs, and squeezed out by foreigners - but two impressive new restaurants, Coach House and Wild Blue, have raised the flag again, and our fussy critic salutes...

May 10, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Old Wine, New Money
Zoë, an old favorite in SoHo, gets a new chef, a new menu, and scary new prices -- but even tightwads may find themselves unzipping their wallets...

May 3, 1999 | Insatiable Critic
Worth Dining For
Chef John Tesar tries out his reasonably priced downtown fusion on an uptown crowd.

December 29, 1998 | Insatiable Critic
Chow, Manhattan
Just when it seemed like the restaurant madness of the eighties was safely in remission, everyone and his dentist wants to play the game again. And one bistro simply isn’t enough. Finding the gems in a rubble of cubic zirconia is my job. When friends call for advice, here’s what I say...

December 28, 1998 | Insatiable Critic
Where to eat in 1999
From fabulous French to Asian fusion, from brand-name bistros to secret passions, where to eat in 1999.

December 14, 1998 | Insatiable Critic
Eating by the Numbers
Whaddaya want on your pizza? Peking duck, smoked salmon, and tandoori chicken at One3 in the Village prove it's a small world after all.

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