BITE will keep you in touch with what I’m eating and what I love and what I left on my plate. I’ll share dialogues I have with heroes and divas, princes and barracudas and what I overhear from the next table. Not every day will I have a meal worth writing about, I suspect, not good enough, not bad enough. Dear friends have asked me if I could try to be meaner so I fit in better on the net. I intend to try. As any man who has lived with me will tell you, I was born to be a critic. Of course, isn’t it the critic who has the thinnest skin of all? I must admit to a certain anxiety. It’s been a long time since I wrote without an editor, a fact checker and a copy-reader to catch my errors, misspellings and typos. I apologize in advance. I’m left-handed and that can sometimes be confusing. I might have stopped reviewing restaurants twenty-five years ago when my first novel, Blue Skies, No Candy lingered on the best seller list. But I am addicted to instant gratification. So I’m still here. On my death bed, I am sure my last words will echo those of the sister of Brillat Savarin:
“Bring on dessert.”
November 30, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
I had expected to see little Mao-like creatures here and there, martial arts champions, possibly some scattered chinoiserie on walls and tables, a store selling jade souvenirs…but no.
November 23, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
When chef Einat Admony announced she would move into the glass-wrapped Soho space that had been Taka Taka, a hapless canteen dispensing Japanese tacos, I couldn’t wait to taste…
November 16, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
Best Dishes 2015
After a longish mea culpa, I am now going to try to choose the other best dishes I’ve eaten this year…
November 9, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
I’ve had coq au vin three times this week in a trio of zip codes…
November 2, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
Neither of them had ever been to Yunnan, but then not many New Yorkers have been either, so they probably won’t be sued for strict accountability…
October 26, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
I’m guessing that Michael White, or Chef Bianco...
October 19, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
It is scarcely a surprise that Epicure might be dazzlingly good. The trick is to live up to three star expectations…
October 12, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
Certainly I was totally opposed to a fancy…
September 28, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
Kat and Theo
There is the chef himself up front under the...
September 21, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
I nod wisely and sip my “Negronish.” The house license only allows wine and beer-fortified cocktails…
September 14, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
Tourondel has wanted to do an Italian restaurant for years, even though his very snobby French father complained when the family was obliged to eat at his Italian mother-in-law’s table…
August 30, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
Be careful what you ask for…you might get...
August 26, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
La Pecora Bianca
I liked the Little Bo Peep theme – the clean...
August 17, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
I always meant to explore the street food of...
August 10, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
It was a dream come true – a menu with something for everyone -- just what the neighborhood needed...
August 3, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
Matsui O Tempura
I persist, neophiliac that I am, drawn to a privileged new indulgence -- tempura omakase punctuated by exquisite little kaiseki bites…
July 27, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
I debated a fishwich versus a burger but I’d...
July 13, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
How could Laurent Tourondel open a restaurant without me knowing?
July 6, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
Where I’m Eating Now
Here’s where I’m eating right now, just for fun, because it feels special, and maybe also, to impress a friend...
June 29, 2015 | BITE: My Journal
Four Seasons Farewell
Quite suddenly, it’s become one of the hottest restaurants in town…