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BITE: My Journal
November 20, 2017
Ten Madison Park
Rich and complex and lingering on the tongue, the cake...
November 13, 2017
Bond 45 on 46th Street
Get fired up by the familiar show of antipasto bravura...
November 6, 2017
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Miraculously I find myself in one of the precious counter...
October 30, 2017
Nur
Exploring the Pan-Middle Eastern creativity of Meir...
October 23, 2017
The Modern
It seems there is a lot of esoteric super service thought...

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December 17, 2001 | Ask Gael
Am I imagining it, or are you getting thinner?
Ummm. Indeed, I'm reading more and eating less . . . voluptuous cookbooks seem to dim all sorts of cravings. Creamy, crunchy, nutty, and chocolate are my four essential food groups.

December 10, 2001 | Ask Gael
I want to do my bit by eating downtown.
Recovery in the dust zone is still a little spotty, so patriotic pilgrimages are welcome. But the town's culinary troops are already bivouacked at The Harrison, the brave front established just north of ground zero by the guys from Red Cat...

December 3, 2001 | Ask Gael
We want to eat light before or after theater.
Remi's luscious new cichetti platter (pictured) is just enough to mute hunger rumbles before or after the show. Cichetti, the small snacks served in the wine bars of Venice, are some of the best bites in a town not celebrated for triumphs of the table...

November 26, 2001 | Ask Gael
Le Cirque's All Star team: where are they now?
Sirio's habitues won't recognize Sottha Khunn out of context, stationed not far from Santa's throne amid the Christmas accessories at ABC Carpet & Home....

November 12, 2001 | Ask Gael
My mate insisted we cancel France for now.
Drop a small, velvety globe of oyster enrobed in a gel of red-wine-and-shallot confit into your mouth and . . . quite suddenly, you are in France...

November 9, 2001 | Ask Gael
I want to get in the car and disappear.
That's how I often feel these days. Recently, we headed to Brooklyn and surprised savvy local pals by taking them to a Cucina they'd never seen before.

November 5, 2001 | Ask Gael
Is this the moment for Afghan comfort food?
Find a place in your diet for compassion. On a stretch of Second Avenue where numbed locals seeking solace filled the surrounding sidewalk cafés and stretched Baraonda to bursting throughout September, Pamir was ominously deserted...

October 29, 2001 | Ask Gael
Why Zitoune?
It's the Arabic word for olive, a beloved soccer star of the eighties, and Moroccan-born Alain Bennouna's third effort to score on this corner...

October 22, 2001 | Ask Gael
What's blooming on the fringe of ground zero?
Nam, with its pale lemon and celadon walls and its illuminated bamboo poles, is a pristine haven from the still-acrid air north of the Chambers Street subway. But managing partner Steven Duong, a seasoned survivor from Saigon, was determined to open, even though the earliest-arriving fans of his crisp, clear Vietnamese dishes at Cyclo had to walk south from the barricades on Canal.

October 15, 2001 | Ask Gael
Comfort me with meatloaf
Yes, it's awful. But here are ten escapes from stress, sadness, and fear.

October 8, 2001 | Ask Gael
It Doesn't look Like we'll get to India for a long time.
Affluent New Delhi flocked when Keshav Kumar opened Coconut Grove, bringing the tastes of his native Kerala north. Now he's launched an outpost in midtown, with chef Prem Kumar (pictured; also from Kerala but not kin) coaching the kitchen in his elegant spin on that region's mixed colonial heritage (Portuguese, Dutch, French, English, and Middle Eastern).

September 24, 2001 | Ask Gael
We need to escape and pretend it never happened
Slip into the bar at the Chambers Hotel after dinner anywhere and lose yourself in the tingling tropical illusion of the cocktail called Passion -- Moët Brut Rose blended with a purée of fresh passion fruit.

September 17, 2001 | Ask Gael
I've got a curtain call to catch on the new 42nd street
Go retro. Rediscover the fun of Chez Josephine, Jean-Claude Baker's lively homage to his adopted mother, Josephine Baker, its bordello look newly refreshed, with crimson shades on chandeliers and memorabilia of incomparable Maman everywhere...

September 10, 2001 | Ask Gael
How do you find your way through the blur of trattorias?
I check out the provenance. Regional chauvinism gets my attention. Or I follow the cognoscenti. Hearing that chef-owner Giancarlo Quadalti's four-year-old Teodora has quietly become a lunchtime hangout for Italian wine merchants and their emissaries...

September 3, 2001 | Ask Gael
What does a high-heeled shoe have to do with it?
Milton Glaser's fruit-filled pump strikes me as a deliciously perfect logo to celebrate Danzon, the narrow little duplex Zarela Martinez and her daughter Marissa Sanchez dedicate to the fragrant, often fiery mix of Mexican, Spanish and African cooking unique to Veracruz...

August 20, 2001 | Ask Gael
I used to love Aureole... will I still?
Curb that rampant neophilia and come back to Aureole. Almost two years ago, chef-patron Charlie Palmer brought on Gerry Hayden as his second...

August 13, 2001 | Ask Gael
Why in the world should I go to Monkey Bar now?
We're revisiting Planet of the Apes - why not Monkey Bar? You feel witty and grown-up in this sophisticated den with its nostalgia for the days of Hollywood glamour-pusses at the Stork Club.

August 6, 2001 | Ask Gael
Doesn't anyone cook at home anymore?
By the time you wake up, work out, digest the hebephrenic morning paper, moisturize, floss, recycle, and write your novel... who has time to cook?

July 30, 2001 | Ask Gael
What's this about a price war in the Hamptons?
Reality strikes. Some of the greediest restaurants in the Goldhamptons are bending too low to woo penny-pinchers and the affluent wounded...

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