May 26, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Tavern on the Green
I’ll want to claim my table under an umbrella in the garden for a romantic dinner on some not-too-humid evening this summer...
May 12, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
My skeptical dining companion, an unabashed carnivore, is surprised to find himself bypassing slow-roasted bone-in ribeye in favor of Chef John Fraser’s carrot whimsy.
May 5, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
It begins with an amuse of “Decoy Chips” and pickles from the half dozen or so at the bar. Decoy chips? Fish skin, crispy and instantly addictive…
April 28, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Best Chicken Dishes
These are my favorite birds right now, not exactly in pecking order, with a collision of greats at the top…
April 20, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
“I want to explain our concept,” the waitress begins cheerfully. I brace myself. I’m losing my sense of humor. At least the hostess seated me without an argument when I arrived ahead of my party.
April 13, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Blue Hill @Stone Barns
I think I knew something messianic was afoot, but it didn’t sink in that my friends and I were signing on for a three and a half hour immersion in nature…
April 7, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
The usual display of discipline vanishes with the landing of olives and the house’s fabulous blowsy flat bread like a stretched-out pita…
March 31, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
The Cecil (CLOSED)
But just say Harlem and they’re in...
March 24, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Indeed, it’s only a few weeks into its quiet opening, but not too soon to be excited by what I’ve tasted…
March 17, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
The River Café
I‘ve never lost the shiver of thrill I get from the diamond-filigree of bridge and skyline across the East River, or the rush over floral exuberance, of roses in every color and forsythia exploding in winter from concrete floors as the tide churns below…
March 3, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Yes, the lace curtains are charming…
February 24, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
The Shrine of Masa
The mingle of sweet and salt and fat is powerful. You lick it slowly from the small black wooden spoon…
February 17, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Rafele: Neapolitan First
“Well, of course I am Italian,” the good-looking young chef begins. “But like Sophia Loren said: First I am Neapolitan“...
February 10, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Scotch egg. Spotted Dick. Welsh rarebit...
February 3, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
Upper East Side friends, always complaining about cuisinary neglect, seem to need an indulgence...
January 20, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
My 2013 Bests
In 45 years as a restaurant critic, I’ve never thought any spot too tiny, too special to share...
January 13, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
M. Wells Steakhouse
Sure, we knew the meatery was set up in an old auto body shop. We just didn’t imagine it would look like an old auto body shop.
January 6, 2014 | BITE: My Journal
The Writing Room
Don’t go looking for insult or affirmation, this isn’t Elaine’s and it ain’t ever gonna be…