April 22, 2009 | Short Order

 A Long Day's Journey into Night at Bouley

Bouley's black onion dust. Photo: Steven Richter.

        Dinner at Bouley last night... Before the surreally moist Pennsylvania organic chicken with black truffles we loved, after the masterfully-cooked Maine day boat lobster in Pinot Noir sauce, the dish shown here crept out of the crypt. This weirdness, this scary iteration of the black hole of Calcutta – five of them in fact, gift from the chef to our table – unleashed a chorus of yeows and yoicks and “take mine away.” Perhaps the reason dinner took so long to arrive was that the chef stopped to develop this creation: sable, also known as black cod, immersed in cream under what our captain described as “black onion dust.” Interesting but not quite delicious. Inspired by an early American coal bin.

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