BITE will keep you in touch with what I’m eating and what I love and what I left on my plate. I’ll share dialogues I have with heroes and divas, princes and barracudas and what I overhear from the next table. Not every day will I have a meal worth writing about, I suspect, not good enough, not bad enough. Dear friends have asked me if I could try to be meaner so I fit in better on the net. I intend to try. As any man who has lived with me will tell you, I was born to be a critic. Of course, isn’t it the critic who has the thinnest skin of all? I must admit to a certain anxiety. It’s been a long time since I wrote without an editor, a fact checker and a copy-reader to catch my errors, misspellings and typos. I apologize in advance. I’m left-handed and that can sometimes be confusing. I might have stopped reviewing restaurants twenty-five years ago when my first novel, Blue Skies, No Candy lingered on the best seller list. But I am addicted to instant gratification. So I’m still here. On my death bed, I am sure my last words will echo those of the sister of Brillat Savarin:
“Bring on dessert.”
March 20, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
4 Charles Prime Rib
It isn’t easy getting past the front door into this crowded 19th-century doll’s house…
March 13, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
Lilia: Brooklyn Bait
Thrillingly delicate, yeasty little donuts are sprinkled with a blizzard of grated sheep’s milk cheese…
March 6, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
There’s a certain sweet innocence: the fake fireplace, the collection of samovars and little china animals. The waiters, too…
February 27, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
I’m reminded why Noah made certain to get a...
February 20, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
It’s the Manhattan institution you might not know on the corner of Madison and 92nd…
February 13, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
Give Me Shelter
Being snowed in justified everything...
February 6, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
A Taste of Havana
Casa Nostra, our private hostel, is a Tennessee Williams stage set…
January 30, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
Chef’s Table Manhattan
I wonder if I should shop now or later, before or after dinner…
January 23, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
Defiance: The March
The clot scarcely moved in the wave of shouts...
January 16, 2017 | BITE: My Journal
The bread passer lets us choose from a dozen options to start and sets a duo of butters on the table…
January 3, 2017 | About Gael
In his Chicago crowd, my brother Jim...
December 26, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
11 Favorites 2016
I’ve been going out for dinner six nights a week. On the seventh evening, I sloth out at home with tuna fish…
December 19, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
It’s a long detour to the House of Gelato across from the Copacabana.
December 5, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
You could say it's Italianish...
November 28, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
It’s very “Tea House of the August Moon,” with pierced screens separating tables, blue and white vases on shelves, a porcelain Buddha, old teapots, and other vintage and flea market Chinoiserie,
November 21, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
White Gold Butchers
Named for the prized ribbons of fat fancied by serious carnivores, it’s a place to buy meat and rotisserie chickens, ultimately planning to serve three meals a day.
November 14, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
Harold’s Meat+Three: I’ll See You in My Dreams
We’re three tonight, so that means I’ll get to taste nine sides. I didn’t mean to arrive so early, but now I have time to study the list and mark my must-haves.
November 7, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
It was just coincidence that I stepped into the past for dinner twice this week.
October 31, 2016 | BITE: My Journal
"I know how to get things built," Borgognone said...