December 29, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Christmas Dim Sum/Kefi Expands
Chinese food on Christmas Day is a New York custom. Except for some delis like Barney Greengrass (where you couldn’t count on a table even if you were the Pope) most restaurants are closed…
December 22, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Did this restaurateur come all the way from Belgium hoping to sell New York a new cult? And isn’t East 60th Street just off Fifth an unlikely temple for some contempo macrobiotic sprouting?
December 18, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Burke himself is a greeter in mufti as if to make it clear he just dreamed up the place, a showcase for sustainable fish, some of it supplied by his own fishing boat…
December 15, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
It says a lot about the souped-up speed of gentrification in New York and even more about Susur Lee that he was willing to close his rocking hit restaurant in Toronto for a hotel dining room above Orchard...
December 11, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
I never doubted Chef-partner David Ruggiero could pull this off… the Brooklyn-born ex-boxer has boundless imagination…
December 7, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
With just fifty seats and not much aisle, and given its elite gastropub provenance, born out of Spotted Pig with April Bloomberg at the stove and Ken Friedman wheeling about out front…
November 30, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Picking Up Pieces/Irving Mill
Not everyone gets to read their obituary in the New York Times…There are pig people and no-pig people. Personally, I don’t encounter many who are neutral…
November 24, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
To be officially declared redundant by New York magazine, long the oracle and chronicler of what’s hot and what’s not…is painful…
November 16, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
$1500 Dinner/Ali Baba
And yes, the demitasse of Thomas Keller’s sea urchin soup, ambrosial indeed with its lick of Meyer lemon, was not as hot as it might have been…
November 10, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Deals Deals Deals
It doesn’t look to me like New Yorkers...
November 3, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Center Cut/Easy Korean
Jeffrey Chodorow’s stylish and expensive Center Cut at the Empire Hotel might be diagnosed as the same irrational exuberance that is offering a Chanel tote for $3,995 in the New York Times this morning…
October 27, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
The Vietnamese Don Juan of bun and pho, Chef Michael Huynh, has the grace to look a little discombobulated at his new perch on the Upper West Side where Rain once reigned…
October 20, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
In the evolution of Italian food in New York over more than forty years, we've nearly drowned in a roiling ocean of red sauce, discovered pesto and overdosed on tiramisu, learned to worship the white truffle....
October 13, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
It’s one of those magical balmy nights last week and our friends wait beyond the kitchen in the backyard “garden”…a stage set far from the financial battering of the day…
October 6, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Uncorking Corton/Cutting Back
It’s the first night Corton is open to walk-ins and the room is not yet finished, but the friendly open square has an easy club-house feel, very see-and-be-seen…
September 29, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Double Crown/Pearl Oyster Bar
It’s scary enough watching the world of strut-and-brag Manhattan shrink. Now it’s the quail too. Half a quail…half a very small quail…
September 22, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Not that I necessarily expected to see debauchery at the low lit bar, or find Wall Streeters on the next banquette declaiming Byron, dressed like the Marquis de Sade, chanting Rimbaud….
September 15, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Bloomingdale Road/Daniel Makeover
This is not just another lineup of comfort food. It’s playpen time. It’s the homey and weirdo hour. We have chicken lollipops-Buffalo with blue cheese fondue…
September 8, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
Like a privileged first child in an ambitious family with excellent connections, Apiary has a top of the line nursery – slick modern design by partner Ligne Rosset starring…
September 2, 2008 | BITE: My Journal
We’re forced to cut through a gaggle of young Japanese possessively pacing the sidewalk, the vestibule crowded with defiant dawdlers, and the entire student population of Japan...