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BITE: My Journal
October 21, 2019
State Grill and Bar
I try to think of a place that’s quiet and not wildly...
October 10, 2019
Tacombi UWS
“Born on the balmy beaches of the Yucatan..."
September 23, 2019
Autumn Break
Some of my best times in the Hamptons have come after...
September 16, 2019
Redeye Grill
It reopened in July after a year-long rehab...
September 9, 2019
Turkish Gambit
Chef Oktay delivers rousing flavors to the Turkish...

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April 3, 2006 | Ask Gael
Send me to a lively French bistro
I felt a shiver of excitement at Café d’Alsace as I savored a gorgeous soup bowl of that almost abandoned classic, quenelles de brochet, rich and cleverly textured for its 21st-century revival.

February 20, 2006 | Ask Gael
Cocoa-flavored gnocchi? Do I dare?
I admit I had little hope for that gnocchi, or for fried cod over lemon marmalade, or fennel salad with licorice-spiked olive oil, bold moves on the menu at brand-new Spiga.

February 13, 2006 | Ask Gael
Is it the real or discount David Burke at Bloomie's?
Taste the mellow green apple lobster bisque and those fabulous Asiago truffle fries and you'll believe the real David Burke has been lurking nearby in this stainless-steel, smartly checkered canteen.

February 6, 2006 | Ask Gael
We're hungry for Comfort on the Upper East Side
The narrow storefront that was Butterfield 81 has always catered to the neighborhood, and that's Francesco Antonucci's mind-set here in a room that is stripped-down and simple.

January 23, 2006 | Ask Gael
Is it Gilt or just plain brass?
I have little tolerance for dinner as a cataclysmic life experience. But bad-boy chef Paul Liebrandt promised to soften his edge at Gilt in the freshly restored hallows of the departed Le Cirque 2000.

December 26, 2005 | Ask Gael
I wouldn't mind a dose of vintage hotel classic
The city's almost manic effervescence has invaded the once-staid Waldorf, unleashing a jangle of energy in the lounge of the newly reorganized Peacock Alley.

December 19, 2005 | Ask Gael
And what's a barbounia?
It's a small, not all that remarkable Mediterranean fish, but the restaurant that has taken its name is making waves already.

December 12, 2005 | Ask Gael
Can we trust the West Side renaissance?
Local grape nuts may cheerfully surrender to the provocative wine pairings in flights of two-ounce tastes at Pair of 8's.

December 5, 2005 | Ask Gael
Stop the (food) world
If you hunger for constancy and dignity, it's time for Cafe Boulud.

November 7, 2005 | Ask Gael
How can you tell it's the new Harlem?
A smartly perfect mojito and deep-fried sage leaves in fried calamari signal the renaissance at Melba’s.

October 31, 2005 | Ask Gael
I need an old-world cocoon for Grandma's lunch
Aging debs from the nabe, capitalists in bespoke suits, even Tony Blair the Carlyle Restaurant

October 24, 2005 | Ask Gael
Desk drudgery is getting me down
Nibble the life of leisure at the Garden Court Cafe.

October 17, 2005 | Ask Gael
Direct me to a seriously excessive pasta
Ride the lift to Piano Due…and immerse yourself

October 10, 2005 | Ask Gael
Will whimsy curdle my udon noodles?
Yumcha is born again.

October 3, 2005 | Ask Gael
Give me a new reason to go downtown
Aaron Sanchez pops out of the kitchen at Centrico with the same flirtatious sweetness…

September 19, 2005 | Ask Gael
Am I awake? I see David Bouley cooking
Yes, the food is delicious. How could it be otherwise at Upstairs at Bouley Bakery with David himself cooking?

September 18, 2005 | Ask Gael
I'm Bored With All Those Copycat Trattorias
It looks like just another unassuming storefront on a shabby stretch of Ninth, but you get a hint of the unabashed ambition at Roberto Passon as soon as you see his ravioli—each twisted to look like a flying nun’s headdress, then butter-tossed with asparagus slivers and fried sage.

September 5, 2005 | Ask Gael
Why do I feel a sea breeze on Delancey?
I'd send you here for the touching romance of the venture

August 22, 2005 | Ask Gael
How far will Jean-George's empire stretch?
Hong Kong, Texas, and now the Village on Perry Street.

August 15, 2005 | Ask Gael
What's new in nouvelle Chinese?
The very name, Mainland, hints of homage to the past, but chef-partner Brian Young isn't bound to tradition.

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