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Hot news, gossip, nibbles and bits...
The outrageously, fabulous Palace that was...
Exposed: Why Patricia Welles' recipe for l’Ami Louis’ pommes Béarnaise doesn’t work. Please scroll to bottom of right hand column.
"Fuck you if you want to be French," Cesare Casella tells David Bouley...
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Want to impress 226 food world stars? If you are Marvin Shanken, hosting the 20th anniversary birthday of Food Arts you serve Chateau Margaux 1995...
EMAIL ME your news, tips and gossip.  Drew Nieporent hopes chef-partner Paul Liebrandt will be Corton’s David Bouley. Photo: Steven Richter. It’s the first night Corton is open to walk-ins and the room is not yet finished but the friendly open square, has a easy club-house feel, very see-and-be-seen… more... Sirio Maccioni at Le Cirque on 65th Street What are the dozen (or so) most important restaurants of the past forty years?. Before the reality of space requirements took over, this was what I wrote… more... How dapper he is in velvet, Frank Valenza, Lord of the Palace surveys the chef’s whimsies. For cuisinary highs and giggles, I will tell about my first dinner at the preposterous and preposterously delightful Palace… more... |
When Fred Deutsch complained at l’Ami Louis in Paris that the recipe for pommes béarnaise in his favorite Patricia Welles cook book produced nothing like the real thing – a lush, rich, crispy potato cake with a ton of chopped raw garlic and parsley sprinkled on top, he got the answer.
"You don’t think I’d give her the complete recipe, do you?" Louis Gadby responded.
Deutsch writes:
"So I invited myself into the kitchen to watch the chef in action. That was a big mistake for me. It seems the recipe did not call for just three tablespoons of chicken fat (as Welles wrote) but for more than two cups of goose fat. I made it once that way for the family. What a difference that fat makes. Here’s how to do it..."
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