February 6, 2006 | Ask Gael
We're hungry for Comfort on the Upper East Side
The narrow storefront that was Butterfield 81 has always catered to the neighborhood, and that's Francesco Antonucci's mind-set here in a room that is stripped-down and simple.
January 23, 2006 | Ask Gael
Is it Gilt or just plain brass?
I have little tolerance for dinner as a cataclysmic life experience. But bad-boy chef Paul Liebrandt promised to soften his edge at Gilt in the freshly restored hallows of the departed Le Cirque 2000.
December 19, 2005 | Ask Gael
And what's a barbounia?
It's a small, not all that remarkable Mediterranean fish, but the restaurant that has taken its name is making waves already.
December 5, 2005 | Ask Gael
Stop the (food) world
If you hunger for constancy and dignity, it's time for Cafe
September 18, 2005 | Ask Gael
I'm Bored With All Those Copycat Trattorias
It looks like just another unassuming storefront on a shabby stretch of Ninth, but you get a hint of the unabashed ambition at Roberto Passon as soon as you see his ravioli—each twisted to look like a flying nun’s headdress, then butter-tossed with asparagus slivers and fried sage.
August 15, 2005 | Ask Gael
What's new in nouvelle Chinese?
The very name, Mainland, hints of homage to the past, but chef-partner Brian Young isn't bound to tradition.
July 18, 2005 | Ask Gael
What's worth the Hamptons hassle?
Who cares how authentic it is when crispy flautas with avocado creme fraiche and chicken mole poblano are that good?
May 23, 2005 | Ask Gael
Omakase is my middle name
The parade of sensuous sushi at Sachiko’s on Clinton, each sliver of fish hiding a heady wasabi charge…